Culture & Education

There are some things that you'll just never know about a country until you live there. Japan is a textbook example of this, and then some. Sure, I'd watched Studio Ghibli and practiced Karate before, but none of that prepared me for pushing a giant, samurai-emblazoned lantern around a temple courtyard for four hours, as my friend sat on top playing taiko. "Surreal" may sound a bit cliché, but that is exactly what my JET life has felt like. Coming from a country where late buses are a fact of life, Japan's forever punctual transport system is nothing short of magic. And eating fish heads, something I swore I'd never do, is now Wednesday's school lunch. In a global world where everything is 10 minutes from a Starbucks, I really was surprised at how different Japanese living could be (although I’m still only 10 minutes from a Starbucks.)
 

The first part of my JET journey started with finding out where I’d be living for the foreseeable future: Kanazawa. While I would have been swallowed up by the likes of Tokyo and Osaka, Kanazawa is a city I could really call my own. The capital of Ishikawa prefecture, everything is within cycling distance, and there’s a community spirit unlike any I’ve experienced anywhere else. Even in the heart of the city, I’m visited by neighbours who then invite me over for biscuits and green tea. I can have friendly chats with the local 7-Eleven cashier, and stumble upon local festivals at the turn of a corner. It’s also packed full of surprises. Of all the various clubs and groups I could have joined, I never would have guessed I’d be a part of the Ishikawa Slovakia Friendship Association; and yet here I am a paid-up member! A vibrant city filled to the brim with great food and beautiful culture, Kanazawa punches above its weight in every category.
 

And as if that isn't enough, Kanazawa is sandwiched between the Sea of Japan, and the incredible Japanese Alps. East of the city is an unbroken range of snow-capped peaks, clearly visible from my school window. And to the north is the Noto peninsula, full of amazing seafood and wild local festivals (one of them is literally called "Fire and Violence")! If ever I'm need of an interesting day-trip, I really don't have to look far.
 

As for the job itself, I work as an ALT in two very different junior high schools: one in the centre of Kanazawa, with nearly 900 students, the other in the mountains with a pupil roster of ten. It's such a contrast to go from the inner city bustle to a school the size of a large family, but I can definitely see the merits of both. In either case, the students are incredibly caring, and they’re always up for chatting about the latest K-pop craze. I also get to visit local elementary schools, where I divide my lesson time between greeting games and shocking students with the age of Newgrange. What really sets JET apart from other English-teaching programmes is that you are constantly immersed in the Japanese work environment. I prepare and deliver lessons with Japanese teachers, take part in each schools extracurricular activities, and unwind with colleagues at enkais (work parties). Few English teaching positions, if any, offer this level of cultural immersion, and it has been one of the top highlights of my stay in Japan.
 

The warmth of my colleagues and neighbours deserves a special shout out. Through their hospitality and encouragement, I’ve joined tea ceremonies and led cooking classes; I’ve dressed as a (very lean) Santa Claus for my local library, as well as a samurai for the city’s annual parade; I was welcomed as a citizen of Kanazawa, not just a long-term tourist, and that makes a massive difference.
 

As well as the Japanese community, the large JET presence is also a major source of support and joy. Gearing up for JET, it’s easy to forget that most of the other ALTs will be from other far-flung corners of the globe. Interestingly, I probably got as much culture shock from fellow JET participant s as I did from the locals!
 

Before arriving in Japan, I of course had a list of things I wanted to do. See geisha, try tea ceremony, wear a kimono; standard stuff. What surprised me though was exploring the sheer vastness of Japanese culture, and trying things that I could have only ever discovered while living here. One such discovery was an Edo-Period fan throwing game, Tosenkyo, where each kind of landing is named after a chapter from the Tale of Genji. It's the most Japanese thing I’ve ever encountered and I absolutely love it.
 

Other pleasant surprises I’ve enjoyed over the past two years include hunting for jade on the shores of Toyama, picking strawberries in Fukui, climbing 2 of Japans 3 sacred mountains, collecting shrine stamps, and travelling the entire length of Japan by local train for less than €20 a day; God bless the Seishun Juu Hachi Kippu! It was thanks to this ticket that I was able to travel to nearly half the prefectures in Japan on a shoe-string budget. And the slower trains give you more time to relax and soak in the amazing Japanese landscapes; Win-win! All of these experiences have helped me see Japan in a completely different light, as a country whose image abroad (i.e. ninjas, Hello Kitty, and Totoro) is but the tiniest fraction of a much larger, more vibrant picture.
 

Now, as bags start getting packed and I slowly look towards home, my urge to come back after I leave has already started to grow. I was drawn to Japan for its anime, katana, and all-round mystique. But, after two incredible years on the Japanese East coast, I know I’ll be returning for its pop-up festivals, unbelievable hospitality, and the charming local trains that never fail to spirit me away.